Krakow (Cracow) Poland - Weekend Trip Tip
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Let me warn you, that even though this entry will be a bit on the long side, it will provide you with a detailed list on how to best do Krakow if you’re travelling with kids. Krakow - similar to Cambridge and as charming as Prague, used to be the capital of Poland. You can reach it easily by car or plane with 2 daily flights leaving from Prague to Balice Airport.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Travelling by air will set you back about 5000CZK per person for a return flight (with CSA). A time-consuming but more economical way to get to Krakow is by car. It’s about 6.5 hours from Prague, 4.5 hours of which is on well maintained motorways.
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You have 2 possible routes:
1) Prague-Brno-Olomouc-Cesky Tesin-Tychy-Krakow (on A4 High way in Poland).
This route is convenient for those who have easy access to D1 or live close to the EXIT points to Brno.
For the ones living closer to Cerny Most and east part of Prague toward Hradec Kralove is faster to take route no.2
2) Prague-Hradec Kralove-Nachod-Nysa-Opole-Katowice-Krakow (A4 Highway in Poland)
The worst part of the journey is the last 80 km to Krakow, which the Poles call HIGHWAY A4. It includes 2 Gate Charges costing 13 PLZ in total = 3 EUR (6.5 each gate) (Euros, USD and CC excepted).
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If you would ask my husband, who regularly had to drive it 2x a day, his pulse would double and he would definitely use some bad bad language to describe it. This part of the A4 highway was the first stretch ever to be built in Poland in post communist times - and they sure did a horrible job of it! That’s why there are constant re-surfacing jobs going on, which in turn lead to traffic jams in at least 3-5 spots, these sometimes result in lawsuits being filed by frustrated drivers. To make the misery even worse – this part of the highway is one of the rare ones with toll gates in 2 spots;right behind Katowice and then just before Krakow.
If you want to experience Krakow properly – take a car. You can make trips to the important and memorable tourist sights such as Wieliczka Salt Mine or Auswitz (former Nazis concentration camp).
( The famous Wawel Castle )
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ACCOMODATION:
I cannot help you much with the accommodation part because we lived in Krakow and rented a house. We have stayed in the Hotel Maltanski and Holiday Inn in the centre. The first option isn’t very practical with kids but the Holiday Inn could be a good option as it is right in the centre. Hotel Sheraton has an awesome view of Krakow’s Castle Wawel, where 54 Polish Kings are buried. Radisson SAS looked good from the outside and Hotel Andels is right in front of the main railway station Krakow Glowny which is also in the centre.
KRAKOW SIGHTSEEING:
What you should do is a boat trip on the Wisla River. The romantic wooden boats look appealing, but might be a bit uncomfortable. We had maximum comfort by taking a small boat that was meant for 8 people (there were 4 of us), and the boat’s padded, leather seats were a great bonus. The trip took about 40m min and we paid 35 PLZ all together. Not much. You will enjoy the view of the castle from all sides.
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You can catch the boat from beneath Wawel Castle where the famous statue of the Dragon stands. The Dragon is to Krakow, what the “Gaudi Lizard” is to Barcelona or “Maniken Piss” is to Brussels.
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In the evening, Rynek which is what the main square is called, is where it all happens. Krakow’s Rynek Glowny is considered to be one of the most beautiful squares in the entire world. Known as the “Market Square” or the “Main Square” in English, in Poland it is known - strangely enough - by its Polish title, the Rynek Glowny. The Rynek is also the term used by many foreigners and expats, who know the city quite well. You can either embark on a pub-crawl or just sit outside in one of the cafes and enjoy the atmosphere.
The great tradition is to visit: Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), which is one of Krakow’s most distinctive buildings. The Cloth Hall was once the main focus of Krakow’s trade. This is also where you will find little shops with Polish traditional handicrafts. There is lots of Amber jewelry to choose from, that Poland is famous for.
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When visiting Sukiennice think of the fact, that it has hosted many distinguished guests over the centuries and is still used to entertain monarchs and dignitaries to this day. Both Prince Charles and Emperor Hirohito of Japan were welcomed here in 2002. With little bit of imagination Brad Pitt and Angelina visited here as well :-)
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We have taken the traditional Carriage ride too. The Carriages stand on the Main square as well as in the streets nearby. The usual quote is 80-100 Zl for a 40 min ride and they do not negotiate. You can also get a ride around the main square for 35 ZL= 8 EUR. Fast, cheap and does the trick for kids.
Unless it is very, very cold the rides are available throught out the whole year and in winter you will get a blanket to cover up with. Lately the Townhall of Krakow came up with a new law on how to treat the horses and I like it a lot. The horses cannot be present in the centre when the temperature goes over 25 C between 12:00 and 13:00. There were 2 accidents this past year when some stallions couldn’t take the heat and drove into a crowd in one case, and then kicked a lady and broke her leg in the second case. They were thinking of banning stallions from this job but eventually they let them stay. I cannot help myself not to comment: Females are just stronger :-)
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Very often they have little markets on the Main Square as well as traditional food kiosks and kids’ attractions. Do NOT miss out on the Grilled Osczypek (cheese) with Cranberry Jam. It’s to die for and is very Polish. They usually sell it in the small kiosks which you’ll find all around the tourist area. We usually need 3 servings to to fill us up. You can also order it in the restaurants.
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PARK WITH PLAYGROUNDS IN THE CENTRE:
If your kids get bored of sightseeing then you can take them to a big park called Jordanski. It contains more than 4 playgrounds, and one of the biggest attractions in the summer months is a shallow artificial lake with electric boats for rent and suitable for kids. Both of our boys always got separate boats, matched to their size, and just adored it.
The Wieliczka Salt mine is also a very popular tourist destination right next to Krakow – it’s more suitable for older kids. You get taken 135m underground and go on a 3 hour walk through its paths and rooms all dug up in salt. Famous is the ballroom where some people even stage their weddings and where the walls, tables and even the chandelier are carved out of salt. Breathtaking. It is 3 degrees Celsius warmer there, so you can leave your coats above the ground.
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SHOPPING WITH KIDS IN KRAKOW:
If you are interested in doing some shopping in Krakow you have several possibilities. When my friends come to Krakow most of them are interested in typical Polish Markets known for their good prices and variety of goods. There are 2 main ones: Tandeta – closer to the Centre – but note that you won’t be able to get there on foot - and Tomex, which is based in the Nowa Huta district.
If you are in the centre, there are 2 main Shopping Malls: Galeria Krakowska (located right next to the Hotel Andels and the Main Railway Station) and Galeria Kazimierz – in the Kazimierz district. This district is known for its restaurants and clubs and apart from the main square, this is where you go to enjoy the night life.
Galeria Krakowska has a small Play Area with a slide in the kids shop called SMYK. This is where we would usually end up after mummy finished her shopping, finally letting the boys have some fun as well.
There is another Shopping Centre with a proper Indoor Playground called “SOLVAY”. with Babysitting from 3 years up. It is on the main street leading towards the famous mountains called Zakopianka. For that you will definitely need a car. You can leave your kid there and go shopping. That’s is the only shopping centre with Child Minding I know in Krakow. But – Solvay isn’t big and the choice of shops is limited here.
In general, there aren’t that many indoor playgrounds in Krakow – but slowly they are being opened. The biggest one is called “Anikino” and the second biggest is called “Kolkoland”
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You might like to take a Balloon ride and see the whole of Krakow from a bird’s eye perspective. It’s an amazing experience! It can get a bit tricky though. We had to wait for an hour to get into the basket with another 13 people, the maximum being 15. Thrilled to be told that we could finally take off – they then told us that Nikki was too small to go in. I was furious. Eventually the whole family got torn apart and my Hubby had to stay on land with Nikki while I managed to smuggle Marcus in with me. You see, it said: ‘Kids pay from 4 years up’. What it didn’t say is, ‘Kids under 4 years will not be let in!!!’ Why, I don’t understand. I wish we had lied and said Nikki was 4. Too late now. In any case, just say your kid is 4 even if it isn’t, because it really doesn’t matter (unless your baby is a 3 months old, still as blind as a bat).
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Another tricky thing is that if it gets too windy, you might get sent away. Yes, they will give you your money back, but it can be a bit disappointing if you get turned back just before your turn comes up, especially if you have been waiting for hours. Nothing for strong characters :-( yet again - if you do wait – it’s really worth it. The view of Krakow Castle and the river is breathtaking.
CAFE WITH INDOOR PLAYGROUND IN THE CENTRE:
Lo and behold, I did discover an Indoor Playground for our readers and right in the centre, next to the main square too! It is in the street “Grodzka” 13, on the first floor of the Cafe “Lodziarnia” and it is big !!! You pay the entrance by the hour and can count on having a good time together with your kid in here. First and foremost, it is a café but they do cook a few meals. Polish traditional “Pierogi” dumplings of thin dough filled with meat or potato mash or potato mash with mushrooms is suitable for any kid. The ones with potato mash inside are called “Ruskie” = Russian Pirogi - funny enought. See what they look like: http://www.warsaw-life.com/poland/polish-food
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I ordered a Spicy pancake with chicken and olives and was happy too. Still, it’s a bit of a waste to eat here if you are in Krakow. I have to say that I prefer Polish food to Czech cuisine. The Poles know how to cook and the thought of their traditional meals makes me salivate. Their soups are also delicious. Here are some Polish dishes to whet your appetite and suggestions of where you can find them at various restaurants in Krakow.
HOW TO DINE IN KRAKOW:
Forget all the old jokes about Polish potatoes and boiled cabbage - Poles have been described as the Latins of the east, and know not only for how to party, but also how to eat in style. Krakow is jam-packed with a whole range of eating establishments, from the rock-bottomed priced milk bars (bar mleczny) to the most sumptuous gourmet restaurants. Be prepared to try everything!
Pierogi - I have already mentioned so let me get back to soups. Polish “Barscz” - beetroot soup with or without cream. You are supposed to drink it from a cup with something that is called “Kroketa (croquette)” a rolled-up pancake with minced meat – which is coated and fried. “Zurek” is another sour cream soup eaten with sausage and egg. ‘Rosol” is a plain broth usually served with noddles - but what a taste!!!!
More suggestions about typically Polsih dishes, can be found here
One restaurant that I can personally recommend is Miod i Malina (Honey and Raspberry) on the corner of Grodska and Poselska Street. The food is to die for and they have a garden with a small play area for kids. It is right next to the main square and the service there is always superb. Here you can taste traditional Polish dishes as well as having a decent international meal.
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Another restaurant I have to mention form a historical prospective is the Ogniem i Mieczem. The Romantic Historical Book of the same name written by the famous Polish writer, Sienkiewicz. It will take you back to the 16th century and the times of Polish wars with the Turks, to the times of Polish knights fighting proudly for their country as well as for the Ladies of their hearts.
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Built in the 16th century style, the staff wear the clothes of the period. You get no artificial drinks on the menu such as Cola and Sprite but only traditional drinks and meals of the Polish Knights, and the names on the menu are also original. We took all of our Friends here, as a part of their Krakow sightseeing tour, and all of us enjoyed ourselves tremendously. Nicolas was walking around the place ‘dying’ from hunger while waiting for his food, constantly repeating; Bread? Bread? (chleba) and before he knew it - he was holding a third of a loaf in his hand, just like a kid from old times would. Traditional, wasn’t it?
Enough has been written. You simply have come and experience Krakow for yourself. You won’t regret it!
CURRENCY:
PLZ - Polish Zloty, 1 EUR - 4.1 - 4.3 Plz
USEFUL LINKS:
http://www.expatsincracow.com
http://www.krakow.pl
http://www.cracow.zaprasza.net
http://www.cracowonline.com
http://www.cracow-life.com
http://www.inyourpocket.com/poland/en/
http://www.expats-in-poland.com
http://www.expatspoland.com
http://krakownightlife.com
HOW TO MEET OTHER MOMS:
http://www.iwak.pl - International Women’s Association Krakow
Basic Polish Vocabulary necessary for survival: here






sharon on 19 September 2009 @ 09:45 PM
thank you! my husband and i got together in krakow and it was always our escape from wroclaw/rzesow/warsaw pre-marriage-pre-kids ... can’t wait to take the kids back w/ your tips!
sharon
Kathaleen on 06 January 2010 @ 12:33 PM
Hello. We’ve been in Prague for a month now and have one more month here. We are considering driving to Krakow for this upcoming weekend. It sounds like you and your husband know the route well between Prague and Krakow. Do you think the roads would be okay to travel on at this time of year or is it pretty mountainous/icy in winter?
Appreciate any input you can provide. Thanks!!